La Malbaie & Pointe-au-Pic

The grand resort of Charlevoix

La Malbaie and the adjacent Pointe-au-Pic form the most developed tourist destination in Charlevoix — the area where wealthy Montréalers, Québécois, and American visitors have been coming to summer since the late nineteenth century. The defining landmark is the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu, a castle-style resort hotel that has occupied its clifftop position above the Saint-Laurent since 1899 (the current building dates from a 1929 rebuild). The hotel and the Casino de Charlevoix that operates in an adjacent building together create a resort pole that gives La Malbaie a different atmosphere from the quieter villages to the southwest.

La Malbaie municipality actually encompasses several communities — Murray Bay, Pointe-au-Pic, Cap-à-l’Aigle, and Saint-Fidèle among them — spread across a long stretch of the north shore of the Saint-Laurent. The town centre proper (previously the town of Malbaie) has good services, a genuine grocery and hardware district, and feels like a functioning small city rather than purely a tourist stop.

Le Manoir Richelieu: the institution

The Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu commands the cliff above Pointe-au-Pic with the air of a place that knows it is the best address in the region. The rooms range from standard to suites with Saint-Laurent views that are genuinely spectacular — on clear days you can see the Laurentide plateau across the river and watch belugas feeding in the currents below. Rates run from 280 CAD to 600+ CAD per night in season. Breakfast is included in many packages but the room rate is the investment.

Non-staying visitors can access the hotel grounds, the terrace bar, and the restaurant. The terrace in summer, with a cocktail and the river view, is one of the better aesthetic experiences in Charlevoix — and the belugas occasionally surface close enough that binoculars are not strictly necessary.

Casino de Charlevoix: honest assessment

The Casino de Charlevoix is a Loto-Québec operation that occupies a pavilion adjacent to the Manoir Richelieu. It is a full casino — slot machines, table games, poker — with a reasonable on-site restaurant and the same river views from its upper floor that the Manoir enjoys. The gaming floor is open to adults 18+.

Honest framing: the house edge is real and the casino exists to take money. Visiting to gamble is a legitimate evening choice if that is your entertainment preference. Visiting for the building and the restaurant without gambling the floor is also entirely workable — the setting is genuinely good and the Loto-Québec restaurants in Charlevoix have historically been above average.

What to avoid: the common tourist-itinerary framing that lists the Casino as a “must-see attraction” alongside the Hautes-Gorges. It is a casino. Treat it as a casino.

Access to the Hautes-Gorges

La Malbaie’s location makes it the practical launching point for visits to the Parc des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie, 30 km north on Route 138 and then Route 172. If you are visiting the Hautes-Gorges and need a base, La Malbaie’s hotel infrastructure is more varied than anything closer to the park entrance.

Île-aux-Coudres ferry

The ferry crossing to Île-aux-Coudres departs from Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive, about 20 km southwest of La Malbaie on Route 362. The crossing takes 15 minutes and is free — operated by the Ministry of Transport as a public service. Île-aux-Coudres makes a natural half-day or full-day add-on from a La Malbaie base.

Route 362: the scenic road

The road between Baie-Saint-Paul and La Malbaie along the cliffs — Route 362 rather than the inland Route 138 — is one of the most scenic drives in Québec. It hugs the cliff edge above the Saint-Laurent for long sections, passes through the villages of Les Éboulements and Saint-Irénée, and offers viewpoints over the river that are outstanding during foliage season (early October) and on summer evenings. If you are driving from Baie-Saint-Paul, take Route 362 in both directions and give yourself time to stop.

Where to eat and stay

The restaurant at Le Manoir Richelieu is the obvious prestige option; the same kitchen runs the Cafe de la Terrasse for lighter meals. In La Malbaie proper, Au Petit Poucet serves traditional Charlevoix cuisine at accessible prices. Cap-à-l’Aigle, a small village 10 km southwest on Route 362, has a cluster of auberges and small restaurants that are quieter and often better value than the main La Malbaie options.

For accommodation below the Fairmont price point: Auberge des 3 Canards at Pointe-au-Pic has comfortable rooms with river views from 160 CAD. Several B&Bs in Cap-à-l’Aigle run 120–160 CAD.

Cap-à-l’Aigle: the quieter alternative

Cap-à-l’Aigle, a village of 700 people on Route 362 about 10 km southwest of La Malbaie proper, is one of the most pleasant small stops in the region and consistently overlooked by visitors who drive straight to the Manoir Richelieu. The village sits above the river with a commanding view over the Saint-Laurent; its restaurant and auberge cluster on the main road offers the best value combination of food quality and setting in the La Malbaie area.

Auberge des Peupliers in Cap-à-l’Aigle is the most recommended room in the area for those who want proximity to the river views and the Route 362 drive without the Fairmont price tag. Several of the valley farms between Cap-à-l’Aigle and Port-au-Persil (further east) take farm-stay guests.

Saint-Irénée and the Domaine Forget

Saint-Irénée, 15 km west of Cap-à-l’Aigle on Route 362, hosts the Domaine Forget — an international music academy that operates a concert series in its converted farmhouse venue throughout July and August. The programming covers classical music, jazz, and chamber music with international guest artists; the venue capacity is small and the setting, with river views from the concert lawn, is exceptional. This is worth researching if your visit falls in summer.

Fishing the Malbaie River

The Rivière Malbaie, which runs through the La Malbaie valley before entering the Saint-Laurent, is a salmon river. The ZEC (zone d’exploitation contrôlée) that manages the upper Malbaie allows day permits for salmon and trout fishing; the river is less pressured than the better-known Gaspésie salmon rivers and the permits are more accessible. Contact the ZEC Rivière Malbaie office for current season permits.

Winter skiing and cross-country

In addition to Le Massif (13 km east), La Malbaie accesses a cross-country ski network maintained by the Centre de ski de fond Charlevoix. The trails connect several villages through the valley and offer 70+ km of groomed classic and skate-ski terrain. La Malbaie is the most convenient base for this network.

Connecting La Malbaie to the broader circuit

West to Baie-Saint-Paul: 60 km on Route 362 (scenic, 1h with stops) or 45 min on Route 138 (inland). For the drive itself, Route 362 is always the right choice.

East to Tadoussac: 100 km east on Route 138, approximately 1h30. The road enters the Côte-Nord region east of the Saguenay ferry, transitioning from the agricultural landscape of Charlevoix into the boreal Côte-Nord character.

North to Hautes-Gorges: 35 km on Route 138 and Route 172, approximately 40 min. See the Hautes-Gorges page for full detail.

South to Île-aux-Coudres: 20 km to the Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive ferry, then 15 min crossing. See the Île-aux-Coudres page for detail.